Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

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simon james
DDK slapper chatter
Posts: 432
Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 5:05 pm
Location: On t’ Moor Baht ‘at.

Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

Post by simon james »

My 356 had been laid up for the last few years whilst I was wooed by other things.
Anyway, a house move prompted me get the car out last year.
The 6v Optima Red I fitted a few years before was flat.
My Lidl Battery Conditioner wouldn’t do anything and a car racing chum suggested using a traditional battery charger.
3 days later it was charged, but I feel as though it doesn’t have the cranking or staying power it once had.
I’ve been enjoying using the car, but the long crank needed when hot seems to almost flatten the battery.
Before it’s suggested, the leads and earths were done (including the solenoid) a few years back, as was the starter bushing.
I have an electric priming pump in the passenger footwell to avoid the dreaded air lock caused by evaporation just after setting off!

I can’t say I’ve ever had a traditional 6v battery in good order, the one on my car was old when I bought it (the car) in 2012.
I must’ve bought the optima in 2015/2016.

My question is…..

Which is best?
Should I stay Optima, which is rated at 50ah OR go traditional Lead Acid at about 80ah.
Both are priced similarly so there’s no cost advantage!!!
It doesn't matter if you speak your mind, because those that matter don't mind and those that mind don't matter.......!
Lusting after a 30/98, will settle for a 23/60.
jtparr
DDK 1st, 2nd and 3rd for me!
Posts: 2230
Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:54 pm
Location: london/surrey

Re: Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

Post by jtparr »

I had issues recently with the E Type which having a big heavy engine needs high cranking power for start up..so I bought an AGM type Optima as it was rated at 715 CCA compared to what the limited space in the car would provide with a traditional Lead Acid battery

I don’t think the Ah rating is that important..isn’t that just how long the battery last uncharged…?..you need cranking ability to start the car….?..

Happy to be proven wrong but I would have said a higher cranking rating is what you need..not an Ah rating….

How do the AGM v Lead acid numbers compare..?

Hope that helps some…
Jonathan
1974 2.7 Carrera
(full restoration. now as an RS Touring)
1963 3.8 E Type
( 11 years in the making…………………….)
1952. XK120…the next one ……….……..)
simon james
DDK slapper chatter
Posts: 432
Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 5:05 pm
Location: On t’ Moor Baht ‘at.

Re: Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

Post by simon james »

Thank You Johnathan.
I’d totally forgotten about the Cold Crank.
I shall have a look!

Edited to add…
Traditional 600CCA
Optima 815CCA…
It doesn't matter if you speak your mind, because those that matter don't mind and those that mind don't matter.......!
Lusting after a 30/98, will settle for a 23/60.
jtparr
DDK 1st, 2nd and 3rd for me!
Posts: 2230
Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:54 pm
Location: london/surrey

Re: Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

Post by jtparr »

600 should really be enough I would have thought..?….it’s only 4 cylinders….but but 815 will definitely be more reassuring…..
1974 2.7 Carrera
(full restoration. now as an RS Touring)
1963 3.8 E Type
( 11 years in the making…………………….)
1952. XK120…the next one ……….……..)
TLC356
DDK Fanatic
Posts: 96
Joined: Sat May 05, 2012 6:26 pm
Location: Dedham, outside Boston USA

Re: Optima or Traditional Lead Acid?

Post by TLC356 »

One big difference I find is that the Optima (any closed battery) doesn't give off fumes. With a regular lead acid battery I often had problems with dirty battery terminals. I've never had a dirty terminal problem with the closed battery.
356 Registry member #15,
'65 C Cab., '55 Pre-A coupe
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