1970 911E Sporto Resto

[8bit-ash]

I decided to redo the chrome on my rear lights as I wasn't 100% happy with the black backing i had applied. This chrome paint requires quite a bit of practice to get right! Its all about very thin layers and knowing when to stop. It takes a good 10+ layers of paint to build up the chrome. I still need to back the paint on these to protect it but i'm definitely more happy this time around -







I'm also trying to spend an hour a day on the fuchs, I'm having to hit them pretty hard with P60 due to the corrosion, i'm worried about losing some of the shape to the petals but i'm not sure what other option I have. -

[Lightweight_911]

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Those lenses look great !!

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[Nige]

Good work, what was the chrome paint you used on the light lens.

[8bit-ash]

Good work, what was the chrome paint you used on the light lens.

Its spaz stix ultimate chrome, Sprayed on with an airbrush. The secret is to do it in super light layers and build it up. I used a torch between layers to see if it shined through. As soon as it didn't I stopped as it can lose its chrome if you go too heavy. The rear lights have come out slightly less chrome as I sprayed the first layer on too heavy. I'm going to leave them for now and test some backer paints on them to protect the chrome. Much like the originals.
You are supposed to back it with Spaz Stix black backer but i found that it can show through in the V's of the crevices where the paint isn't very thick.

[jjeffries]

I'd urge great care with those Fuchs; seems like you'd have to go uncomfortably deep to get beyond those pock marks? Just urging caution from a strengty and safety perspective. John

[8bit-ash]

I'd urge great care with those Fuchs; seems like you'd have to go uncomfortably deep to get beyond those pock marks? Just urging caution from a strengty and safety perspective. John

I had wondered but I sent good pics to a couple of wheel refurbers and none seemed to think it was an issue. I'm no engineer but although they look bad they are only a fraction of a mm deep, this is their first refurb which obviously helps. Its annoying as they looked really good until the anodising was removed.

[8bit-ash]

While in Polishing hell I figured I may as well do the Frames myself too, I don't know why I decided this as Nicks prices seem very reasonable for the amount of work involved! I may live to regret this. Does anyone know if the unseen bits have the scratches sanded out when Nick etc does them?



Striped with inserts removed and cleaned of all the black gum gum-


Ready to get the anodising stripped off, I'm not sure if I need to remove the steel bracket on the small pieces or just seal up the rivets? Rear windows have also been done to ensure everything matches.



one down, the rest to go . What looks like very minor corrosion is actually a lot harder than you think to fully remove.




To give my neighbours a rest from the continual noise of the sander I have started cleaning a few more bits up. This is the stuff I find the most satisfying, the polishing can do one.

[PMNorris]

Very nice on the window frames. What are you sing to polish them with? Are you planning to have them bright anodised again when you have finished polishing?

Lenses look great too. I did mine a couple of years ago and then bought a lens polishing kit to do the fronts. They came out really well. I should had lacquered them though, which I will do at some point as they are not quite as shiny as they were.

Paul

[8bit-ash]

Very nice on the window frames. What are you sing to polish them with? Are you planning to have them bright anodised again when you have finished polishing?

Lenses look great too. I did mine a couple of years ago and then bought a lens polishing kit to do the fronts. They came out really well. I should had lacquered them though, which I will do at some point as they are not quite as shiny as they were.

Paul

Thanks, yes they will be anodised once finished. I'm using a combo of elbow grease and a mini 2" air sander starting at 80 or 120gt then working up through the papers to 4000gt. I've then polished with one of those drill polishing kits you get on line and finished off with a hand polish. I might upgrade to a polishing kit that fits on my polisher as the drill one is easy to slip and scratch all of the hard work.

[BILLY BEAN]

I'd urge great care with those Fuchs; seems like you'd have to go uncomfortably deep to get beyond those pock marks? Just urging caution from a strengty and safety perspective. John

I had wondered but I sent good pics to a couple of wheel refurbers and none seemed to think it was an issue. I'm no engineer but although they look bad they are only a fraction of a mm deep, this is their first refurb which obviously helps. Its annoying as they looked really good until the anodising was removed.

If I may say I don't think "wheel refurbers" are a good test of what is appropriate. Such people are principally interested in making a wheel aesthetically attractive. Whilst they should have an eye on safety: if a wheel fails there is always "what do you expect from a 40 year old wheel".
As for the pitting in your wheel: not all pitting is a result of external forces. Some pitting can be "faults" in the material and may penetrate deep into the forging.

[8bit-ash]

I'd urge great care with those Fuchs; seems like you'd have to go uncomfortably deep to get beyond those pock marks? Just urging caution from a strengty and safety perspective. John

I had wondered but I sent good pics to a couple of wheel refurbers and none seemed to think it was an issue. I'm no engineer but although they look bad they are only a fraction of a mm deep, this is their first refurb which obviously helps. Its annoying as they looked really good until the anodising was removed.

If I may say I don't think "wheel refurbers" are a good test of what is appropriate. Such people are principally interested in making a wheel aesthetically attractive. Whilst they should have an eye on safety: if a wheel fails there is always "what do you expect from a 40 year old wheel".
As for the pitting in your wheel: not all pitting is a result of external forces. Some pitting can be "faults" in the material and may penetrate deep into the forging.

I've used your advise from another thread and have found someone who is cutting it back by eye to ensure only the minimal amount is taken off. They are then measuring the thickness in multiple places for me to ensure its still within limits. The one pictured is the worst one by far, the others are all much less severe, I might find that that one needs replacing but we'll see what the engineer comes back with. The spare wheel was virtually pit free which suggests the pitting is caused by the environment and the petals have all cleaned up fine after sanding so I don't think there are any issues with the manufacturing. My mentioning of the wheel refurbers was mainly because it suggests the level of pitting isn't unusual for a stripped fuch. When the anodising was still on you really wouldn't have known that they were pitted at all.

[IanM]

bit-ash,
Do you have an update?

[8bit-ash]

nothing worth sharing at the moment unfortunately. I'm continuing to do a few little bits and pieces but the cars 100 miles from home so probably not considered essential travel to go and tinker with it sadly. I've got a boat i'm fitting out to live on then once thats finished hopefully lock down will be over and I can plough into putting it back together.

[IanM]

Any updates?