Electronic distributor 123ignition

[Max911]

Dear Gentlemen

I did it... I bought the electronic distributor from 123ignition, now waiting for it.

My Marelli unit has a lot of play on rotor, breaker point tend to slide horizontally and I suspect it's the cause of the lack of power in top end rpm of my 911 2,2 T my 1970

I know that my engine is not an high revs engine but (other post) it's rude from 5000rpm... I know it's not a 7000rpm but at least 5800/6000 rpm would be reasonable.



Workshop manual tells me that more than 2-degrees at 900rpm, 35 degrees at 6000rpm is the most important reference...

Never seen...never able to check it...




So I decided to buy 123ignition distributro, bluetooth programmable...expensive but buying a used standard bosch distributor to renew I would have spend more or less the same

I would upate this post in order to get it useful to those of you thinking about buying it...if it makes sense to buy it...or (hopedully) not

If any of you have opinions about it or advices on timing curves please be kind and share them

Thanks
Max


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[Ashley James]

Max

I had trouble buying a Lucas Distributor that produced the correct curve for my Healey and since a 123 was a similar price to a modified Lucas from the Distributor Doctor, I chose a programmable by USB 123 and pre programmed it.

There are several 123 websites, some with malware and the software is only Windows compatible, so I borrowed a dreadful laptop from a cheapskate friend of mine and after worrying lest I’d infect said laptop I persuaded my son in law to load the correct program and the daughter to program it as per the works specifications.

As you can see below, it’s relatively easily to plot the required advance curve and if yours is a bit more complex, you can have up to 16 different points to achieve the required curve.

You should plot yours to the book opting for the middle figure, so if it says 28-32 set thirty on the 123.

If you do exactly what they say and it doesn’t cure your problems, don’t start fiddling with the timing. Something else is wrong.



Best of luck

[Max911]

James thanknyou very much!

I choose the bluetooth programmable 123 distributor, there's an app for iphone and ipad to program and monitor the timing curve


I looked at some youtube video where other customers show how to do and seems something not so impossible.

For sure the engine will benefit of a regular spark that now my old distributor and points are not able to provide regularly as they were new...

A good further feature is the possibility to block via smartphone the ignition like a sort of anti-theft system

Max


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[Ashley James]

123 is a good product and should be more accurate, more reliable and longer lasting than a tired old Bosch distributor.

[Max911]

Good evening Gentlmen

New distributor and coil arrived yesterday



Immediately started installation as a child with a Christmas gift





With provisory but solid connection... I'm ever scared to set immediate irreversible modification.

I want to keep cdi hkz unit but not altering standard original wiring of the car.

Finally setting a first advance curve (based on standard curve of my old Marelli)



The engine fired up easily, I think too much flooded by fuel: to set the curve via bluetooth the ignition has to stay on so in the meanwhile fuel pump did his job pretty good...

Just some smooth revs to keep engine running and then I stopped it... It was midnight and did'nt want to wake up all neighbourhood...just have the confirm the engine would (at least...)start

Now far from car fo business trip... Anxious to get there again for the weekend and improve advance curve and get out for a drive

Hope could be useful to anyone interested in electronic distributor

Thanks
Max


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[Ashley James]

Max

How’s does your chosen advance curve compare with the original Bosch one. I ask because I’d have expected maximum advance at much lower revs.

I think you should copy the original specification for the engine and then put the car on the rolling road with someone who knows what he’s doing who can juggle with the timing to see if there is a power benefit.

[inaglasshouse]

Max

How’s does your chosen advance curve compare with the original Bosch one. I ask because I’d have expected maximum advance at much lower revs.

I think you should copy the original specification for the engine ...

Ashley
See what you mean.
But from the first post in this thread, it looks like Max has done exactly that (2.2 T engine and Marelli dizzy).
Cheers, Richard.

[Max911]

Thank you Gentlemen for your suggestions

I have just received from kind ddk user Nine nine one with same car and same distributor his curve and studies that I will set tomorrow and then update this discussion
Max


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[Max911]

Dear Gentlemen as promised:

Set the curve on 123 distributor and gone out for a short spin...

It' s different car!! (Better)

Engine runs regular and vigorous

Some metallic noises disappeared (it was the clak clak play of old distributor running and bouncing on his old weak sleeved...)

And most important it gained again the full revs pull: up to 5800 rpm (it's a 2,2, T)... Before it became rough alighrly after 5000 with some misfiring

Some uncertain moments between 2000 and 3000 rpm but now it needs small adjustments also on carbs.

Special thanks to nine one one for sharing his curve and graphs and suggestions.

I will post some pictures and when I ll be able to get a new dyno run with a proper advance fine tuning

Thanks
Max




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[Ashley James]

I’m glad it worked out for you too. I drove my Healey to Hartlebury for the Vintage Austin Register Annual yesterday, it was the first longer drive since I’ve fitted better callipers a stiffer a anti-roll bar and the 123.

Unlike a Porsche it has a crude gearbox and poor ratios, but it has its full 150bhp and it really flies, much better with a carefully programmed 123, so I’ve decided that the 356C will get one too, even though Bosch distributors are better than Lucas.

[Max911]

Dear Gentlemen

a further update: with 123 ignition the car gained again the 600rpm lost (with old dizzy at 5200rpm power started to decrease...) and pull up to 5800-6000rpm.

It had some shaking from 2-3000 with the curve posted before(not invented...but coming from porsche graphs on porsche manual...) so via mail Eric from 123ignition.de suggested me a simplified curve:
rpm limit 7200 (my car is a T...should be 6400....)
0 degrees at 500 rpm
20 degrees at 2000 rpm
38 degrees at 6000 rpm
addind that checking with stroboscopic light that 20 degrees at 2000rpm will give me -3 degrees Before tdc (my car is an USA T) at idle

with this set up the car has no more shaking. I still have some doubt about the app 123 on my phone (differences in rpm, at least 200rpm and in degrees) and on actual responses when doing adjustements...
But Eric from 123ignition gave up answering my mail...something happened...who knows...

I rolled the car on dyno... surprisingly 5 bhp less (118 vs 123 with Marelli dizzy) when my feeling is that car is going well: finally pulling up to 5800/6000 rpm.

In the meanwhile I found a mechanic that revised my old Marelli (I want to keep it as a spare), I still run 123 but I'm still curious to understand better how it works (not sure it's doing all his potential properly)

hope this info will help other ddk-911-lovers
Regards
Max

[Ashley James]

It won’t be the distributor that’s losing BHP but the timing. If your compression ratio is higher than standard and it will be if you’re oversize, then it might need less advance at full power, though still 5 degrees static.