hot, not starting, gen light on.

[Dean.s]

Today i had 2 instances of not starting when the engine was at temperature, but not hot. Also the generator light came on and stayed on while city driving but went off on the motorway and never came back on when i left the motorway for my village.

I run twin weber 40's
electronic ignition on a svda034 distributor.

The first cut out & non start was at yraffic lights the second was on the drive when i got home. The engine turns over fine and the battery is fine. However i got it to start by pulling one plug lead off to test for spark.

[Max911]

I would inspect wiring and connection around distributor, coil, hkz cdi unit ...if sometimes spark defected but car is running fine something affected is in that area.

Other thing is generator light: it should disappear immediately when revving or something is not good on alternator but this is not directly related to spark
Max


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[Dean.s]

A couple of up top tests tonight.

The battery is 12.4v but drops to 12.25v when the engine is started . but it does not change . so no charge happening.

I need to check the belt tension next.

The coil has 12.10v to the + while ignition is on. When the engine is running the voltage is all over the place.

[Strictly]

the voltage should be stable when running, something like 13.5 to 14, perhaps your voltage regulator is shot...? I had an engine which ran like dirt once, which turned out to be that. But test first, dont throw parts at it. If you voltage is stable (try it on the battery). If it is jumping all over the place near the coil, you could have HT interferance from poor HT connections. I have seen that before with dwell angle

start issues could be many things, bad fuel pump, fuel pump wiring, ignition, etc....but can also be the engine itself (i.e compression). Next time it dosent start, check spark and fuel, straight away, if both there, and the battery is spinning over the engine fast enough, charge the battery then do a hot and cold compression test. Things like bad valve adjustment, valves sticking open that type of thing would affect starting...which would show up in a compression test.

[Sam]

First, if you have a charger stick it on charge for a night and test it again. My guess is it’ll still be early 12s and it’s just the battery that is dead.

[Max911]

I agree with Sam: a battery with 12,4v is not in good condition. If recharged does not keep charge you need to change it.
Max


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[Dean.s]

I went through the charging circuit tonight. the aux belt was loose, thought maybe with fingers crossed but no difference. Then i removed the voltage regulator and still no increase so it is a dead alternator.

I'm hoping the low battery power was the cause of difficult starting. So until i have replaced the alternator and charged the battery (it's on charge now) i won't look further into it.