Back in beige

Ongoing and archived Porsche (and other marques) restoration threads from DDK members

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Bez1
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Re: Back in beige

Post by Bez1 »

jamie wrote:Engine in!

When the finally engine runs, they ignition system will hopefully fire to the funky rhythm of New Orleans in 1968 (or I think this may be '69, either way...): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_iC0MyIykM

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Hi Jamie,

Looking very cool. Did click on the link as well - hope the garage was jumping.

Keep at it.

Matt
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

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I've installed the driver's seat on my homebrew brackets and I'm really pleased with the result. The seat is offset to the centre of the car and lines-up perfectly with the steering wheel and the tacho. There's still enough room to operate the handbrake and the position of the pedals feels a lot better. When I had my right-hand drive 72T, I was often told that the pedal arrangement in RHD cars was offset and wrong. To me, LHD cars feel much more wonky. This goes some way to fixing that for me.

With the engine in, I figured it was probably time to play catch-up with the interior. I have lots of the interior done but had been ignoring the rear arch covers, or whatever they're called, as they were in a real state - warped, with tatty vinyl. The covers are made up of two pieces - a plastic 'bubble' that sits over the arch, and the flat(ish) card bit which is attached to it. The only way to re-cover them would be to split the bubble from the card. So I did this, and both plastic bubbles, brittle from decades of slow-bake in the California heat, fell to pieces in my hands.

The good news here is that you can buy new bubbles for £80 or so each side. I lined myself up to do this, then had a reality-check and decided to try repairing the ones I had. I love working with fibreglass. This was a quick-and-nasty job - sand the plastic for a good key, stitch the cracked bits back together with cable-ties, Tokyo-drift stylz, then layer the glass over the top. I used shitty low-rent chopped strand mat, then sanded it down once set in order to remove nasty edges. It worked really well - great news - £160 saved.

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I covered the outside with original interfacing. I rescued this bit from the original parcel shelf. The entire top edge of this bubble is made from fibreglass, since the original split into fragments as I removed the staples where the card was attached.

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I cut the card (ie. the top section) from 3mm Foamex using the old piece as a template. I then covered it with 1.5mm or 2mm-thick closed-cell foam, to act as an interface between the Foamex board and the vinyl that would eventually cover it, having rediscovered a roll of it in my garage. This gave a really nice interface, with just the right amount of squidge. I wish I had used this stuff when I did my door cards - it feels just right.

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Close-up to show the foam:

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Before I joined the bubble and the card, I used a heat gun to curve the front edge of the Foamex card so that it met with the rear edge of the door apterture where the vinyl wraps onto the B-post. I opted to cover the bubble in plain vinyl and the card in basketweave - not original, but I thought it would look smart with the new basketweave door panels. Hotroddin' baby, YEAH!

After joining the two together with a shitload of contact adhesive and staples, I installed it in the car. Here's a photo of the end result. The capping part is original vinyl - I just removed the vinyl, cleaned the surface rust from the steel beneath, and glued it back together again.

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Repeated for the other side, only to discover that I'd cut my last fragment of basketweave wrong and didn't leave enough to finish the job. So I've ordered some more.

All vinyl for my interior came from Garry Hall (VisualFX of this parish). It's beautiful quality stuff and nice to work with.
Last edited by jamie on Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by Darren65 »

Way 8)
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

I wanted to do something interesting with my door cards, since the originals were wrecked beyond salvage.

To start the job, I cut new boards from 3mm Foamex. I like Foamex because it's stiff, light, easy to cut and, unlike board or plywood, impervious to water.

Then I covered them with 3mm foam underlay (intended for use under laminate flooring) which I bought from a carpet retailer on the high street. As I mentioned above, I wish I'd used thinner foam as with the rear arch covers since it gives a more factory feel.

I covered the whole door card with basketweave vinyl which I bought from Garry Hall (VisualFX on here). I considered adding a pocket in plain vinyl along the whole length of the bottom of the card, but was worried that the wrap-around at the edges would end-up a podgy mess. So I opted to keep it simple. I also managed to salvage the plastic beading from the edge of the original door cards, so I cleaned that up and fitted that, too.

(This photo is from p65 of this thread, where I was talking about making the dash top. I ended-up scrapping that dash top and making another since the new foam bit of the dash was a slightly different shape to the original. It's a story for later, or probably never, since it was so insanely tedious).

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That was over a month ago. I left the cards, since I couldn't work out what I wanted to do about door pulls.

The problem lay in the way the pull would enter the door. I'd seen some really nasty solutions on Pelican etc - holes just cut in vinyl, tatty edges, etc. I didn't want this. I liked the solution I'd seen on Mark Slade's restoration thread - with a metal grommet. My worry here was that over time the grommet would pull-away from the door card, especially given that the straps I had bought were so thick. But I liked the straps and didn't want to change them, so I had to come up with another idea...

First I tried melting through a test piece of vinyl with a hot section of square steel tube. No matter which temperature I tried (hot, hotter, molten lava), it looked like shite.

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After several hours of trawling around haberdashery websites, I found an oval grommet that I thought might do the job. I ordered it and it arrived in a pink envelope in a pink plastic bag with a handwritten note saying thanks etc. Nice, but I wonder if the sender would have gone to all this trouble if they knew what a motherfuckin' badass I was?

The two halves screw together, so there was no way that was coming away from the door once installed.

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They were chrome, but with a bit of emery paper I was able to give it the same effect as I did with the decklid badging...

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The only problem here was the opening - too small for the strap to enter and continue towards the door catch at the same angle. What a pain.

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I considered turning the grommet 90-degrees and using a different pull - perhaps some braided leather cord or something. But I didn't like the idea of using cord. It had to be this strap.

By now I had spent the best part of a day poncing-around with this. It was late, so did something I never do and went to bed at sensible o'clock. I must have dreamt about it all night, because at 7.20am, I woke up with a very clear idea of how I was going to proceed...

First I cut the required hole in the inside door panel:

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... I painted the lip of the hole to prevent rust.

Then this:

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At the end of the strap that attached to the door latch, I made a little tab. This is 2024 aluminium - what is commonly referred to as 'aircraft grade'. This is better than aircraft-grade - it's EASA-certified, flight-ready 2024-alu, cut from an actual bit of old aeroplane. Because it is blessed by the unforgiving fist of EASA, it cannot go wrong.

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Before installing the door card, I searched the house for some tough, no nonsense, working-class door liner material. Unfortunately none was available, and I had to instead make-do with this very middle-class House of Fraser door liner instead.

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This is the end result:

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I doubled-over the end of the strap to make a door pull. On the other side of this hole is a 6mm anchor nut, riveted to the inner door panel. It's a low-cost, lightweight, simple result. I've never seen it done before - am I the first?

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If so, I hereby declare it a Signature Touch.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by sladey »

Looks great Jamie - front and back

What actually have you done instead of the grommet? I can see the basket weave there but can't see how it's fixed in

Oh and apparently the idea that no one has done it before no longer seems to be a requirement for a signature touch :wink:
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

Ha! Indeed.

The cover is a piece of basketweave, folded and glued. I poked it through to allow the strap to exit, then glued and stapled it to the door card from behind.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

912 shoutout by Mark Radcliffe on BBC 6 Music today: https://clyp.it/1kaalbku
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Re: Back in beige

Post by AndrewSlater »

912 shoutout by Mark Radcliffe on BBC 6 Music today: https://clyp.it/1kaalbku
Cool 8)

As for your door cards solution I think you wanna put a bangin' donk on it! That will sort it out :lol:
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

:)
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

This evening the girlfriend and I spent three hours installing, uninstalling and reinstalling, MANY F****** TIMES, the rear window.

We remained calm and methodical throughout, but now I'm back indoors, I'm just super knacked off. I've torn the shite out of my fingers, pulling string around the seal over and over again. Motherfuck.

The window goes in, but the corner of the seal sits badly the lower corners:

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I think this seal came with the car. Anyone know what's going on here - is it some cheap aftermarket shite? Would a proper, genuine OE Porsche seal solve this problem? Or do all modern seals sit like this?

Fucksticks.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by 911hillclimber »

Strikes me all replacement rubbers are crap.
OEM must be the best bet.
I used OEM back in '89 when I did mine, front screen too, and it popped in easy, BUT I got old 'Joe' from the local Autoglass to do mine.

He came out of retirement to do it as the young guns had never done it before. "String?" :?

Cup of tea and a crisp £20 note seemed good value at the time.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by aston »

Haven't done it myself yet but I've seen a couple of references on here which say don't attempt it with anything other than an original Porsche seal for the rear screen. Apparently, the front screen is a bit more forgiving so a free choice.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55028
Kieron.

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Re: Back in beige

Post by jury »

OEM is the only way to go on the rubbers Jaime...I/we got the rear glass screen in on the first attempt after many failed attempts with an aftermarket seal ( and plastic rear screen :roll: ). Front was actually more tricky, but we were trying to avoid damaging the heating elements.


Nice door cards though !! :)
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Re: Back in beige

Post by jamie »

I worked that one out ages ago - all aftermarket seals are a gamble. Even if the vendor lists them as 'OEM quality', most are total crap. I've wasted hundreds of pounds, and many hours of my life, with bad-fitting aftermarket rubber on this car, only to have to replace it with proper stuff.

Problem is, this seal came with the car. It feels soft and supple like a Porsche original seal, but I guess it isn't. I guess it's time to try a proper one from Porsche.
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Re: Back in beige

Post by sladey »

jamie wrote:912 shoutout by Mark Radcliffe on BBC 6 Music today: https://clyp.it/1kaalbku
I heard that Jamie - was it you that sent in the photo to him then?
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
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