1972 RHD 911T Coupe

[cobb911]

Hi Adam

This is the thread where I asked a similar question.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48613

MT suggests the technique of removing front to back is needed for 72 but may also apply to your 73. I have labelled the terminal for each wire as I removed it from the fuse box but am yet to pull it out ( got distracted by some of the other tasks). You should see the fuses in each fuse box are numbered so I marked each wire with the same number.

I was not going to bother leaving a guide wire in there as I reckoned something like the wire for net curtains would be firm enough but flexible enough to find its way back through as a guide.

Good luck with your own project.

Regards

[Bigfoot]

Thanks Graeme

Many thanks for the advice, will try this week some time. what are you using to label the wires which wont be ripped off when pulling through??

[cobb911]

Thanks Graeme

Many thanks for the advice, will try this week some time. what are you using to label the wires which wont be ripped off when pulling through??

Sorry, I missed this reply. I labelled each wire with masking tape then a bag over them all with the end taped over. Only proved that as far as pulling it from front compartment to inside car but yet to pull through the tunnel. Looks like from your thread you may beat me to it to complete that.

Regards

[cobb911]

It has taken a while but the wiring loom is finally out. Other than not having had so much time to spend on the car over the summer the stumbling block had been the nut on the starter motor. After weeks of rust treatment and WD40 there was no sign of it moving. £5 investment in a couple of nut splitters, a few choice words and nut was off in no time.



It may not have been so bad if the nut was more accessible but once it was off the wire from starter to battery could come out giving more space for the loom to make it over the torsion bar.

Pedal cluster is still on the list to remove but unfortunately there is not enough space to get the nut splitter in. I am sure though I'll find some more nuts to attack with it before the car is stripped.

Regards

[cobb911]

A while since the last update and it has been a mix of items that have come off surprisingly easily and others that have been quite stubborn.

The rear callipers were a tale of two bolts - the upper and the lower. On both sides the upper bolts came off fine as the access is fine to use a socket and 1/2" breaker bar. For the lower bolts access is so much more restricted. The shorter 19mm socket that I had meant using a 3/8" ratchet drive. I chose one that I was prepared to sacrifice and just as well as it broke. I had thought the ratchet itself may go with the force required but it was actually the centre male connector to the socket that gave up. In the end I purchased a 3/8" breaker bar and they came off.

I thought the driveshafts may put up a fight but all the bolts came out without complaint. The bolt holding the driveshaft flange to the hub on the drivers side made up for that. While the passenger side had not needed much force I was beginning to wonder if I might need a few more sessions at the gym before I could apply enough force to get the other one to move. It has now come off.

Regular soaking in WD-40 has also allowed the seat rail bolts and gear linkage screw to move. Removal of the latter means I think the only things left to do before dropping the engine and gearbox out is to drain the oil and detach the oil pipes. That may prove more challenging than it needs to be as it looks like someone has coated the underside of the oil tank with underseal so covering the drain plug.

It will probably be easier to drain if the car was facing in to the garage rather than out as I will have more access but before I turn it round I will see about completing any tasks on the passengers side. That meant cutting off the rear wing.



The leading edge of the wing was already hanging off due to the common bodge job approach of using fibreglass to effect a repair (fibreglass has its place but not there). That meant I did not need as much courage as otherwise I might have done to take an angle grinder to my car.

Anyway, I now think the car looks better for it. Years of crud also removed and it does not look as corroded as I though it might. Main area needing repair is just where the engine pull tube passes its way inside the car.

This time last year my car was still in a container being delayed from arriving by storms. Although I might have wanted to make more progress by now at least all the work so far is my own. That is other than the advice received from DDK either directly in answering my questions or by reading how others have tackled certain jobs; both of which are much appreciated and worth far more than £10 membership.

Regards

[cobb911]

Today was a major milestone. From my wife's perspective it is the day she can no longer park her car in the garage for a while but from my perspective, and with the assistance on my friend Chris. the engine and gearbox are now out.



I had taken the heat exchangers off before to reduce the height I needed to lift the back of the car so the engine would clear it when sitting on the lifting table. Once the car was lifted dropping the engine and transmission went surprisingly smoothly. I had been thinking it could take all day, given the time I had spent on some other jobs but the time from stepping in to the garage this morning to taking the photo was less than a couple of hours.

Steering rack and column are also out - I had fought with the sheerbolts a few weeks back. Other than heater flaps and items in the tunnel that are now possible to remove since the engine is out, the last item to remove is the suspension. I am almost at the stage where I have to consider blasting or dipping on the shell. Either way it has to be done to move forward even if I am a bit nervous of how much will be left.

Regards

[cobb911]

It does not seem like 5 months since the last update but the car is finally fully stripped. The 'no rhyme or reason' pattern continued with the removal of the final parts like the doors. I had to drill off the heads of some of the bolts as the threads that took the M8 bit were already stripped. On one side the remaining stalks were able to be turned out by hand once the door was out the way but on the other they still refuse to move. I am hoping that after the heating and dipping process at Ribble Technology in Preston they will come out more easily.

This was the scene before loading the various items to be stripped.



and how it looked in the back of a LWB Luton Transit.



It was loaded with the assistance of a couple of neighbours but much more easily unloaded with a forklift.



If all goes to plan and it does not disappear when dipped I should get it back in just under 2 weeks.

[cobb911]

It took 3 weeks rather than 2 so all the rust was removed but better that than coming back half done.

This is after the first stage of the process which effectively burns the paint. That has to be the worst look.



And after a pressure wash and dip to remove the rust it looked better.



And after a protective coat of primer it has a sort of 'stealth' look.



Now it can be properly assessed for what can be repaired and what needs replaced. The parcel shelf, rear seats and bulkhead look in pretty good shape and even the roof looks better than I thought it might. It must have been change of colour to white in the early 80s which was done over the top of the original tangerine that gave it a bit more protection.

[911hillclimber]

Busy winter ahead then...
Lots of old repairs to un-do, door strike mounting mod looks good!

Will you DIY the shell?
Be good to see the detail as you un-pick it all.

[johnM]

Looks like you have got plenty of work there.

Interesting to see how they have stitched on a whole new nose onto the car.

Keep the photos coming. We all love a restoration.

[cobb911]

Definitely a couple of suspect previous repairs. I plan to get the body work done professionally. Although I am prepared to turn my hand to most things reading the importance of getting it all aligned properly I think I will pass it to someone with a jig. There is still plenty to keep me busy refurbing the other parts.

Regards

[aston]

Hi Graeme - did I see somewhere that you are after one of these..?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Tankdeckel-Tankk ... SwGotWnilv

[DEEMAN]

Great to see the progress Graeme. If the filler panel is the same as earlier ones, I've got one here you can have.


Ian

EDIT you mean the oil filler panel don't you. Sorree......

[cobb911]

Kieron, Ian

Thanks, I got one, also from Germany.

Regards