Back in beige

[jamie]

Can anyone help me with part numbers for items 6 and 7 for a 911SC?

[abzadams]

try here

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-part ... ion=402-00

[Mike911scrs]

HI jamie

901 341 629 00 support washer £6.01 +vat from Porsche

900 038 002 01 lock washer £1.09 +vat from Porsche

parts for a SC 78--83

regards mike

[hot66]

[

I've still to work out why the rear cover is vented. It was a solid plate on my 72 911. When I was disassembling this car the inside of the tunnel was filled with 50 years of fluff and grease.

I was always under the impression the vented plate was from a car with aircon to help air flow through the cabin, but as the years have passed I've seen quite a few vented plates on cars without aircon .. coincidentally they all seem to have been US cars. Eitherway, pretty sure it has something to do with cabin airflow.

My '73 car has a solid plate

[Lightweight_911]

As far as I'm aware the slotted tunnel cover was for earlier cars fitted with the auxiliary Webasto (petrol) heater in the smuggler's box.

If the car was not optioned with the petrol heater, there was a bitumen-like pad fitted under the slotted cover.

Sometime in '72 the solid cover became standard.

[MT]

Agree with Andy - then the bitumen pad splits or goes AWOL and cars end up with just the slotted vent. Just finished a 71 targa that still has the bitumen-like pad. 66 swb had Webasto - slotted no pad, 72E has solid cover.

Mick

[jamie]

Mike, Rich - thanks for your help with those parts.

Re the slotted cover - I imagined it might be rear heat / airflow. Also dust and grease collection, somewhere to keep small denomination coins etc.

Nice to know about the bitumen pad - I will reinstall the grill with something similar.

Oil arrived from Opie today - 3 litres of B373 as per Mike's spec, 5 litres of Millers Running In Oil and 5 litres of Silkolene Classic. All mineral, yo.

Whilst we're on gearboxes, here are some shots Mike sent me whilst he was working on mine. I dropped the box up to him a few weeks ago. He kindly brought it back down to Nick Green's shop in Towcester, where I collected it earlier this week. It was nice to meet Nick - he is a great guy and has some lovely cars.

When I was up at Mike's he opened-up the gearbox so I could see what to expect. The oil looked like Bovril and one of the bearing cages fell out, spewing ball bearings everywhere. F-you-cked, was the way Mike explained it. I left him with the pile of bits, and he has seemingly done his usual lovely work on it.

The syncro rings were encrusted with quite a lot of shite:



Here Mike is setting up the gear selectors with the holding tool:



New first gear slider, syncro band and dog teeth:



Setting the pinion depth using a long-reaching dial gauge:



Here are the ends of the two differential output shaft bolts, with the ends worn from holding the diff cross-shaft pin in position.



Mike modified my diff to the later style diff pin arrangement, with a bit of engineering work to get the parts to fit. The worn ends on the bolts have been removed. This is why you go to Mike Bainbridge for gearbox work (and don't attempt to do it yourself!).



This is as sexy as a 901 will ever look. The Wevo reinforced side plate stops the diff from exploding out of the casing as a result of bellend driving style.

3=0. No idea. Bad maths, or perhaps a doodle of an arse shitting a football.





Incidentally, the box is stamped as having been made in week 45 of 1967 - the 6th-12th November - the week the first ever issue of Rolling Stone was published, and the week NASA first tried out the Saturn V rocket in the unmanned Apollo 4 mission.

[sladey]

Fantastic stuff

[911hillclimber]

You can almost 'tell' when a box has been through Mike's hands...certain kind of look about the finished article.

I thought he was moving to even better workshops about now?

[AndrewSlater]

The gearbox looks wonderful - I too must visit the Lakes when funds permit!

[jamie]

Dunno about Mike's workshop. It's in one of the most beautiful parts of the country, so I wouldn't want to move if I was there!

Just been out fitting the angled tubes that run the wiring from the front wing to the headlight. The originals were absolutely shagged and beyond repair, so I bought some 90-degree stainless 1" exhaust sections from eBay. They needed a bit of persuading-in with a rubber mallet, but all in all a good fix, and they were £10 each instead of £50 each for the (mild steel) Porsche part. For the rubber joiner that runs between the pipe and the headlamp bowl, I used some radiator hose from my aeroplane. The Rotax service bulletins dictate it be replaced every five years, and I just did mine. There was nothing wrong with it, but aeroplane maintenance wants to be preemptive, not reactive. I'd say that bit of hose I used on the car was free, but in effect the hose that I had to replace it with was F****** expensive, so it kind of isn't. Nice to recycle good stuff, though.

Cables are now in the headlight bowls. There are four tabs in each bowl that I've now realised were mountings for the US sealed-beam 'sugar scoop' units. I threw my scoops away the day I got the car, declaring them a warcrime of Federalisation Bullshit (along with thermal reactors, corner reflectors and clown-shoes giant overriders).

The thing is, three years on, I'm now kind of digging the scoop look. I'd like this car to keep a bit of it's American history, and nothing say 'merican Porsher like scoops.

I kept everything else I removed from this car. Should have kept those scoops (like I reckon I should probably have kept Sand Beige).

[jjeffries]

Jamie, I have a pair of scoop trim rings, but not the innards. Let me know if they would help you. John CT/USA.

[elchap60]

Jamie, I also have a full set of federalized headlights from 1969, just changed them for european H4 lights. I can send you pics if you are interested. But be warned: it depends on wether you want to see the road at night or not. They are crap, unless you can get better lighting in them. To look or to have the looks!
Cheers,
Laurent

[jamie]

Thanks chaps. I remember now - the scoops were rubbish when I was driving the car through LA. I'm not 100% on this anyway so I think I'll stick to original plan of H1s. But thank you for the kind offers.

[jamie]

Had lots of sitting-in-front-of-the-computer work to do today, so rather than do any of it, I miffed-around with the car.

I spent most of the morning trying to get the front bumper to fit. It's a fibreglass one, and I managed to buy one with LWB mounts instead of SWB ones. First I tried attaching it through the top two of the four holes in the front slam panel, but it sagged on the driver side. Being fibreglass, I think it's a bit wonky.

After many hours of fussing around with nuts and bolts, I decided the best way to get it to sit right was to drill holes in the lower horn grille frames, down through the bumper and use 5mm stainless bolts to bolt the thing up to the car. It worked great, and meant I don't have to use the two heavy steel bumper brackets that held the steel bumper in place.

Whilst all this was going on, the postman came by with my new clutch friction plate. So this afternoon I put the clutch together, then mated the gearbox to the engine. Landmark moment!



Unfortunately, I don't have any idea how I'm going to install it in the car. It's extremely heavy and I don't think I can hustle it into place on my own.

Whilst I'm here, can anyone tell me if I put the clutch together right? The lever has less room for travel than I expected - did I miss a shim or something?