Back in beige

[Robind]

all credit to you Jamie and just hope mine comes out close to this, this thread will keep me going during the long nights of our 66 resto

[cubist]

Matt black the bonnet? You're being very hard on yourself there chap, it looks excellent from here!

[inaglasshouse]

come parading through this thread in a shower of masking tape with dust-cloth cape and a hat made from a measuring pot

Funny! You've earned that parade at least. Thanks for the entertainment and heart in this thread.
That door gap / alignment shot shows that the fundamentals are great. Paint - only you can decide.
Personally I'd probably do the bonnet again, put it together, use it for a year, then see how I felt.
Cheers, good luck, Richard.

[Northy]

Keep going Jamie - it's a slog, but it will be killer once it's done. It's time like this that it feels like a long way back, but a few weekends and it's drive-able again.

You could put a subtle stripe over the car and down the bonnet? Perhaps a 1 shade lighter pair of stripes from front to back - ala sport classic?

Looks good on my mate Paul's 3.2:

[911hillclimber]

^^^ Indeed.

After a year of use then it will be scuffed to some degree anyway and will certainly have a few chips from stones.
To top coat the car you can simply remove the glass, the headlamps etc and mask off as the interior is all done, the mechanicals can be masked.

Matt black bonnet will knock the car back imho so repaint it, leave the rest unless down to bare metal and press on.

Nearly there!

[Nine One One]

Jamie,
for the smallish additional expense, just get someone to apply the final coat, in a booth and it is over and done with.
Everyone knows the effort you have put into it, prepped it, rubbed it down, sprayed it, rubbed it down, sprayed it again, rubbed it down, rubbed it down a bit more, and now spraying again.
Lots have been in the same predicament as yourself, and once you see a fault, it will hit you in the face every time you look at it, and appear worse every time you see it.

I do not think anyone can take away the amount of effort you have put into it, and just getting someone to put a final layer on for you, in a clean, dust free environment, and baked on, the final finish will be superb, and worth all your effort.

It will take the pressure off you, and you can still be very proud of ‘your finished’ product. The perfection to a good spray job, is the preparation, and yours has been prepared superbly. Go on give it to someone else - it is not taking anything away.

Failing that vinyl wrap it!

Ian

[jamie]

Spent today fitting more stuff to the car. I've arranged for it to have it's top coat applied by a proper paint shop. In an ideal world, I would send a bare shell, but as I had already started fitting stuff to it and have no plans to take it all off again, I guessed there was no harm continuing. Just have to mask the thing up good and proper (again) before it gets paint (again).

I spent most of the day on the wiring loom. It's from a company in the US called YnZ Yesterday's Parts. Amazing customer service, and a very, very nice product that is a breeze to fit. Quite a lot of money, but nice things usually are.

The loom is numbered, which makes it a lot easier for colourblind folks. Even so, I had to ask my girlfriend to help me with the big bundle of connectors under the dash. She even stopped halfway through to make me lunch - amazing girl On the original loom, these all connect via some grey plastic connectors. YnZ don't have these plugs - they use the female side of a standard bullet connector instead. It works perfectly, but you have it takes more time connecting the wires individually. In my case, hours.

This evening I gathered-up all the pieces of the tacho that I had disassembled ages ago. When I got the car, the odometer wasn't working. On investigation, it turned out to be the pot metal gear on the end of the cog wheel - it works loose on the shaft that drives it and is a common fault on these. I used the tacho repair guide on Pelican to help fix it. The tacho they show is much later, so I had a few other issues to deal with, namely how to remove the cog, since the mechanism on mine didn't allow to to be slid out like on the later ones.

I worked out that if I unscrewed the face of the tach, I could create a gap just big enough to slide the cog out that way. You have to be careful not to pull the speedo needle off its shaft, since that will require the unit to be recalibrated.

Once out, a few choice whacks of the cog with a hammer and punch to tighten-up the hole, then reassemble the mechanism. I reset my odometer to zero, too (then wound it on one mile to check it was working OK - what I should have done is set it to 99999 and wound it on to 00000. But hey ho). BBQ skewers work well for this task.

Skewer pointing to offending pot metal cog:





After that, it was a simple case of cleaning up the face and glass, and reassembling the unit.





You may notice the scratched bezels and ignition barrel surround. Where possible, I'm trying to keep original bits because I like them.

I will straighten the gauges up, too...

[sladey]

Nice - must make a change from all that rubbing down shite

[911hillclimber]

A change is as good as a rest, and getting it painted will get you re-motivated towards the car in general.
Best marry that girl, she sounds ideal for a petrol-head!

[jamie]

Yeah - just couldn't face it anymore. Massive props to anyone that paints a car in their garage and gets it looking good.

When Barry was working on the shell, he told me that Mike / Grannysmith painted his car in his carport and that it looked like it had rolled out of a booth. If anyone hasn't seen it, it's simply amazing: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=36794

I really want to get the headliner in, but that will have to wait. Perhaps a trial fit in the mean time.

[Robind]

intrested in the loom as about to order our new complete loom inc sunroof, battery ect with orignal dash plugs from Kroon at £1450 but maybe this is a better choice???

[jamie]

Perhaps. Email Scott at YnZ and see what he says. I needed a front loom and he had it to my hotel in the US in a couple of days. A total pleasure to deal with.

[964RS]

The problem with people like Godzilla and his shiny green targa are that people think they can paint their car on the driveway like him and get the same result.

When in fact they can't and it's a freak like Mad Mick the owner.

Glad it's gone for proper paint. Might actually look bahama yellow when it comes back

[jamie]

I think the painter plans to use the same PPG product, so it won't!

Today I started work at 5am, which meant I got home about midday. I decided to pull the master cylinder apart and check the bore for the inevitable scoring.

Rejoice! On inspection, the inside was a smooth as an otter's whatever. I cleaned it up and installed it on the car. That's basically money saved!

I installed the brake fluid reservoir and new plastic lines to the master cylinder. In my garage I have a plastic tub full of bits of hose and pipe. I often wonder why I keep all this shite, but today I found the answer - A small coil of PTFE pipe of the exact same size as the ones removed from the car.

The only thing is, the ones I removed from the car had been monkeyed-around with - at the master cylinder end were some ragged bits of that cloth-covered fuel pipe, attached to some brass barbs and secured with tiny cable ties. Leaky looking. I checked the parts diagram for my brake system and noticed the ends of the plastic pipe should have bits of metal pipe where they connect into the master cylinder. These metal tubes have been chopped-around, too.

Anyway, can anyone tell me if this will suffice? The tubes are sat in the rubber seals pretty tight. They feel secure, but there's no barb to keep it in place.

Also, anyone able to tell me where the cylindrical relay in the footwell (I forget what it does) is supposed to be mounted?





In other news, I got some new rear shocks, and finished assembling the handbrake drum brake mechanism.

[danny]

I think the painter plans to use the same PPG product, so it won't!

Hi Jamie,

Darryl's Bahama Yellow 912 restoration used a colour matched to original paint PPG code which turned out fairly spot on:
http://www.darrylsgarage.com/912/912paint.htm

Loving this thread