I was going to fit fuel injection yes. The car came with carbs and has nothing from the FI side. I was thinking of using MS etc or getting a kit from the US only as Ive heard mixed reports about the original FI and of course with 35 years of ageing it could be dodgy.
Saying that, I have just built all the cars rewiring and restored the relay board... so how hoard can it be to fix an old FI system
There are pros and cons of staying with original I guess I just assumed the modern stuff would be more reliable and efficient etc.
Dont suppose you have the link do you? If its badged as bus bits then it could be nicely priced
thanks
Andrew
1976 914 2.0 (Orange now without Brown flecks)
2016 BMW X3 3.0d
2020 Globe Car 640 Summit
I believe the original intake system isn't bad but the injection meter is restrictive so would (personally) mega squirt the oem manifolds if you are staying mild on cc & cam.
There is tonnes of info out there on building a decent type 4 engine and achieving reasonable power can be quite cheap. I've got a 2.0 engine with Weber 40 carbs, a Eurorace cam, and flat top 914 pistons which puts out 105 hp and will rev to 6,000 -owes me no more than £1000!
I'll post a few links to decent resources but its all about spending money in the right places. Many of the stock components can be reused with the exception of rods which although fine are quite heavy and there bolts can be a weak point. If you have a set of the 2.0 914 heads then you are already off to a good start as these have the largest valves available and are highly sought after. As already mentioned a set of 96mm pistons will increase displacement to 2056cc without the need for any machine work, also save a chunk of weight. The flywheel can be lightened quite a bit as well, some say the feel is slightly snappier then stock but yet to try myself. You might have to add an extra oil cooler in somewhere to keep temps down - something I'm doing to mine right now.
If you do everything right then 120-140 should be achievable.
There is tonnes of info out there on building a decent type 4 engine and achieving reasonable power can be quite cheap. I've got a 2.0 engine with Weber 40 carbs, a Eurorace cam, and flat top 914 pistons which puts out 105 hp and will rev to 6,000 -owes me no more than £1000!
I'll post a few links to decent resources but its all about spending money in the right places. Many of the stock components can be reused with the exception of rods which although fine are quite heavy and there bolts can be a weak point. If you have a set of the 2.0 914 heads then you are already off to a good start as these have the largest valves available and are highly sought after. As already mentioned a set of 96mm pistons will increase displacement to 2056cc without the need for any machine work, also save a chunk of weight. The flywheel can be lightened quite a bit as well, some say the feel is slightly snappier then stock but yet to try myself. You might have to add an extra oil cooler in somewhere to keep temps down - something I'm doing to mine right now.
If you do everything right then 120-140 should be achievable.
Thanks for that Ill have a look through these. Its a bit of a mind field. I understand why youd want to rebuild a whole new engine if you dont know anything about the previous one but it gets very expensive. I dont know what to realistically expect mileage wise out of a new engine vs a 'budget' rebuild and I suspect even then there are too many other factors to make it an exact science.
I guess I want about 110-120 bph (if poss) reliable (so I dont have to take it out for a rebuild every 2 years) efficient (so thats FI probably MS with TBs etc) and I want heat (so that means original exhausts.
Right Ill make a list, Im probably going to get new heads from Stateside, some sort of hybrid internals and then MS FI.
thanks
Andrew
1976 914 2.0 (Orange now without Brown flecks)
2016 BMW X3 3.0d
2020 Globe Car 640 Summit
Smog pump, basically pumps air into the exhaust ports to help nasty gases burn off more effectively, couple with thermal reactors on the exhaust Y tubes its an early form of emission reduction. The heads of engine fitted with smog pumps had injector drilled into the heads, you usually remove them and blank them off. The smog pump isn't attached to the EFI in anyway so you can just junk it.
I wouldn't pay £99 for that lot there is no AFM either and always check the rubber intake boot (on the left below the intake runner) they're usually full of cracks by now so totally useless.
There's various bits & bobs that might be useful to someone else (injectors, bits of loom, etc). The key bits are the 2.0 only intake runners and unique plenum / throttle body. Pretty hard to find, these days. Those parts could be combined with ms electronics and modern injectors. A 914 2.0 with the proper original heads / pistons (or 96mm) but up graded with a mild cam (the stock one is poor) and modern injection will make 110-120 bhp easily. Adding throttle bodies would allow a wilder cam but would also cost a lot more than £100.
You could also shorten the intake runners to a short stub and combine with motorbike throttle bodies but that takes a lot more fabrication & figuring out (time consuming).
Hey no trouble. You'll have to sift through the links as there is a lot of info out there. It's good to see how people are building larger engines and what stock components they retain.
Speak to Stateside regarding your heads. Like I say the Porsche 2.0 heads use the largest valves and are the best to use in any performance type 4. So long as they are genuine and not cracked then definitely worth reusing after a refresh. Probably consider some stiffer springs if you're changing the cam and maybe some port work - James will advise you what's best!
