My clock is slow :(

Airhead · Post by **Airhead** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 3:50 pm

Having given myself a pat on the back for repairing my clock and getting it going again I've noticed it is a tad slow (loses roughly one hour in every 96). I suspect the mechanism is a bit sticky after years of not moving......I've already sprayed some WD40 on it to get it moving in the first place........anything else I can do?

Nige · Post by **Nige** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:05 pm

more WD up its ass, mine took quit a few squirts on different occasions, it keeps better time than Big Ben now! although the battery is disconnected at the moment

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:52 pm

Silly question, how do you go about repairing them? No signs of life in mine at all. It is now the only part of the car that does not work!

Nige · Post by **Nige** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:13 pm

Barry,

If its stuffed inside, it might be best replacing it, otherwise just pull away from the dash check all the connections are good, give it a good couple of blasts with WD40 (or similar) through the holes in the back and see if it does the trick.

Mine had no signs of life when I first had the car, WD40 trick made it work intermittently for a few weeks then I gave it a good dose of the stuff and its been fine ever since, nearly 4 years! Bit like antibiotics really.

Alan @ CanfordClassics · Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:15 pm

This may help you.

Alan

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... repair.htm

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Dec 02, 2004 11:30 pm

Thank, Alan, that looks great: a nice civilised job for a change!

tanick · Post by **tanick** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 10:33 am

For what its worth, there isn't much you can do to a clock that's worse than squirting WD40 into it. You need to apply a very small drop of thin clock oil (WD40 is not really oil) onto a couple of parts.

I saw this thread and to be honest haven't really looked at the clock yet, fairly low down on the priority list even though it loses 5 mins per hour.

I had a quick look in my clock last night. charge it by pulling the large metal wheel back (as the solenoid does when it winds it every 5 mins or so so that it runs.

The parts that are moving fast are the escapement. These parts regulkate the drivetrain so that it keeps time. You can easily see the ruby bearings. This is the top of the balance staff. the balance wheel spins back and forth driven by the balance spring. Under the balance wheel is the end of the pallet. This is slightly anchor shaped and leads to the nylon escape wheel. Oil the top and bottoms of the staff that the pallet and the nylon escape wheel are on. This should be enough oil. To regulate the movement, use the brass screw on the back of the clock. Mine is very near to the E of the word KIENZLE. If you have a 12V supply, set it up in your house and regulate the clock for a few days. This movement is quite sophisticated for a car clock and even regulates for temperature change.

Its a lovely piece of engineering, please don't ruin it with WD40.

impmad2000 · Post by **impmad2000** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 10:59 am

Thanks for that Nick, just what I was thinking.
It is the build up of old oil that usually stops old clocks. Do you think the whole movement can be ultrasonically cleaned, or would it need to be dismantled first.
Sounds like you have experience of clocks, Horologist by any chance ??

tanick · Post by **tanick** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 12:52 pm

Not a horologist, but I do like clocks and watches. I know more about how to break them than about how to fix them. WD 40 seems to have this reputation as a cure all. All it is good for is dispersing water. For those who don't know, it was invented by NASA as a water dispersant. WD1 was their first attempt and after 40 goes they were happy. It isn't really for penetrating (use Plusgas), preventing rust or oiling hinges (use engine oil or 3 in 1), locks (use graphite) and especially not clocks.

You could take your VDO clock to a good horoligist and they could dismantle it and ultra sonically clean it. The only thing unusual about this clock is the method of winding the mainspring.

A good service would sort out most problems. As you say, it is deposits of old oil and dust that stop most clocks.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 5:45 pm

Done it! I took the back off, and tried very gently loading the gear train, the balance tried to move a little: so I knew nothing was seized solid. I squirted WD40 into a cap, and with a tiny brush, used it to clean all of the pivot points, the gear train and the escapement. I found if you dabbed a little on, and sucked it straight back up with a second brush wiped on tissue, you could pull quite a bit of muck out. With a pin the pivots and pallet were then lubed with a light oil (lathe Hyspin headstock oil as it happens!). By this time it had already decided to work, and is now running in the workshop alongside a digital clock awaiting regulation. Nice to watch it use up the mainspring and get re-charged.

Not that I'm sad ....

Airhead · Post by **Airhead** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 4:41 pm

I was aware that WD40 may not be the proper way to service the clock but it did the trick to confirm that it wasn't a lost cause in the process of fault finding. I was conscious that the mech looked like it could do with a good clean and proper lubrication and didn't to put anything as viscous or sticky on it as oil or anything that might gum up the mechanism. Now that I know it works I'm sure a good strip and clean will sort it out

WD40 may not be the best cleaning solvent, penetrating fluid, rust preventative or indeed water dispersant but it does have a multitude of uses all of these included. I find it useful for locating air leaks in manifolds too

click on the can to join the WD40 fan club