Special getting closer...

jwhillracer · Post by **jwhillracer** » Mon May 23, 2011 2:15 pm

Hillclimb slicks work straight out of the box, they are the softest compounds, as normally used for circuit extreme wets. Graham's previous tyres were old cut circuit racing tyres, so he should have massively more grip in the dry.

JW

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Mon May 23, 2011 5:28 pm

About half way through last year I threw those awful cut track tyes out and had A15 slick, as sticky as they get, just as Jonathan says. My string of 58's came at the end of last year when i most of the time could coax 3rd out of the box.

I think i'm changing gear more slowly mind to ensure the box keeps working (which it does) and finding 3rd is reliable now.

I just think i need to try harder.

It has been suggested the car is too wide on rims. It has 10" Fr and 14" rear, and the suggestion is 10 rear and 7 front with appropriate tyres.

I'm not ready to spend £1000 to experiment, but i do think the springs are too heavy (250lb Fr and 300 Rr) and I'm thinking of putting the fronts to the back and new lighter ones on the front. The current rates are what Lola used for circuits when they sold them.

The adjustable (2 way) Koni dampers have a wide range so should get that bit settled easy enough.

There is always something!

gridgway · Post by **gridgway** » Mon May 23, 2011 6:41 pm

The thing is if it's slower now than last year, you need to be brutal in looking at the changes.

Don't look at what you might do to go quicker, look at what you have actually changed taht results in you going slower!

Graham

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » Mon May 23, 2011 8:08 pm

Graham

The bottom line is you need "seat-time". You also need to go to an open track and learn the limits of the car, the likes of a sprint track and learn how to steer the car with some speed on it.

Go and do a few sprints, and yes you will burn out a set of tyres, but unless you are prepared to "invest" in a bit of learning, you will take a very long time to drive on slicks.

I reckon it takes a year of Ulster events (that's 8nr 1 mile hillclimbs, and 9nr 2 mile sprints) before you even begin to explore the limits of the grip you now have, when compared to your road tyred 911. Now how may Prescotts & Shelselys will you have to do to get that sort of mileage ?

Yes get the car set up professionally and go for a moderate suspension set-up, then learn to wring it's neck before you start guessing what really is the optimum set up.

Sorry to sound so hard, but that's what I've learnt over the past 30 years

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Mon May 23, 2011 9:30 pm

All good stuff!

I ran my warm (360 bhp) Impreza on Avon slicks and that took a year to 'find' the grip and it was quite a leap of faith.

This Lola is another thing.

It is so light in comparison to the 911 even and the steering so sensitive, it is al a learning job.

HOWEVER, still did a 58 with an inferior power train.

Curborough Sprint track is ideal and i can hire it for 3 people for a long morning cheaply in july to cane the thing.

Wish i could be doing that tomorrow as I'm keen to put this to bed and progress.

Bruce M · Post by **Bruce M** » Tue May 24, 2011 11:38 am

I think we are all agreed you need track time with generous run off areas (not a wall or a line of trees!) so you can explore the limits of grip in a safe way. Confidence is everything. For example, if you push hard in a mid-speed bend do you instictively know which end of the car will break first (not power oversteer) or will it just wipe out completely (more likely with a mid-engined car). With the knowledge gathered from track-time, you can adjust the setup to suit your style of driving and make the limits more predictable & managable.

On the subject of the springs... You previously mentioned, I think, hitting the bump stops when you slammed on the large anchors. In that case lowering the spring rates seems like a bad idea. I'd be interested to know how much the spring is compressed at rest (from non-preloaded length) and how much remaining travel there is.

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Tue May 24, 2011 12:54 pm

Fixed the chin hitting the deck on the sunday morning by 2 clicks onto the dampers. Never did it again.
I should however check the bump stops!

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:13 pm

Took the lola to a full Championship meeting this wekend in a day of hard rain, tricky on 14" wide slicks as i don't have wets.

The car ran great except the demon adjustment i made to the throttle cable came loose on the first race run and i climbed the hill in first on tick-over....

Fixed tightly, i checked the throttle movement/tightness onlt to find I've been only getting 1/2 throttle all this time!
If i press much harder then i get full 270 bhp response.

I've test this when at Loton this next weekend, but only if dry!

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:14 pm

911hillclimber wrote:Took the lola to a full Championship meeting this wekend in a day of hard rain, tricky on 14" wide slicks as i don't have wets.

The car ran great except the demon adjustment i made to the throttle cable came loose on the first race run and i climbed the hill in first on tick-over....
Fixed tightly, i checked the throttle movement/tightness onlt to find I've been only getting 1/2 throttle all this time!
If i press much harder then i get full 270 bhp response.

I'll test this when at Loton this next weekend, but only if dry!

Bruce M · Post by **Bruce M** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 2:36 pm

ah..... that might make a difference.

Good luck with the next "dry" performance.

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:01 pm

Thanks, might need to cross my spanners again..

The engine takes on a very different note when at full chat, and I have not heard that since Bob's roller video.

trouble is the geometry of the lola's original pedal and the PMO is not ideal, and I have tried to avoid things getting too sensitive to pedal movement.

I think i need to sit (should read lay) closer to the pedals. The clutch pedal is a bit of a reach too.

I'll get there yet!

MikeB · Post by **MikeB** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:12 pm

Graham

Don't "sit closer" to the pedals, get the pedals moved back. It's quite simple, just a new hinge bracket riveted to the floor and longer threaded bars to the master cylinders.

You want to be a/ further from the accident and b/ more central in the car.

911hillclimber · Post by **911hillclimber** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:36 pm

Good idea Mike and sensible too as the car is a bit 'feet-first'/ nearly 917/908 latout.

however it is all welded etc to place.
At the risk of sounding silly, a block on the pedal(s) will work!

Think i had some on my Triang tricycle...

Lightweight_911 · Post by **Lightweight_911** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:42 pm

Maybe it's time to dig those old platform-sole boots out of the back of the wardrobe Graham !!

haasad · Post by **haasad** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:16 pm

Just catching up with the events since the broken upright. ( lovely looking repair by the way and properly engineered to boot)

I cannot offer any constructive advice regarding getting quicker but am loving the way you approach the problems and solve them.

I'm sure the performance will come with a mixture of self examination and engineering understanding.

Do you ever "appear" at Gurston since I'm close and would love to see you and the car ?

andy