Tappet Adjustment tips

sladey · Post by **sladey** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:14 pm

Did my tappets today (on 911) for the first time - used this excellent article on pelican

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticle ... adjust.htm

The only thing I can add to the article is that when I started doing them I was trying to look at what I was doing and was trying to slide the feeler guage in end-first.

I learned after a while that it was best to put the feeler guage next to where the gap should be and then twist the guage to slide the blade in sideways (if you imageine the blade of the feeler guage is a knife, then it's like trying to slice with it instead of trying to stab with it)

The other tip was when trying to get the feeler guage into the gap put your fingers in there as well - it's much easier to feel where the blade is going and also much easier to feel when you've got the blade in.

Don't know if either of these help but thought I'd pass them on anyway.

tanick · Post by **tanick** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:05 am

When I adjusted my valves recently (engine out of car) I found that they were all closed to tight. Took me ages to summon the guts to loosen them off before re-setting them. Don't trust supposed 'experts'!!!!

Gary71 · Post by **Gary71** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:58 am

The other tip is to feed the feeler gauge in from the other rocker cover (from inlet cover if doing exhaust valves). This gives a straight run for the feeler gauge and means you don't have to bend the end over, giving much better 'feel' for the gap. I did mine with the engine out so you don't have the bodyshell in the way!

But you can also do it with a helper in the bay and you underneath.

sladey · Post by **sladey** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:51 am

I agree with all those - for my feeler guage though I bought the porche tool which has it already set at right-angles

Robster · Post by **Robster** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:34 pm

Hi Sladey,

where did you get your 'Porsche' feeler gauge from.

I'm having probs tracking one down.

Best regards
Robster

MdR · Post by **MdR** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:38 pm

I've just been thru this with Mark/Sladey too!
I've just ordered mine from OPC Guildford part number 000.721.213.20 - it's about thirty quid.

hot66 · Post by **hot66** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:28 pm

MdR wrote:I've just been thru this with Mark/Sladey too!
I've just ordered mine from OPC Guildford part number 000.721.213.20 - it's about thirty quid.

so you didn't use the 'bent' feeler gauge then ?

Is the Porsche one the same as the 'Pelican' one?

sladey · Post by **sladey** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:14 pm

Hi Robster - I got mine from OPC nottingham - wasn't any problem when I phoned up and spoke to Kevin in the parts department

It came with some spare blades as well which I hadn't appreciated when I ordered it (I ordered some extra ones).

Now idea how it differs from the pelican one or the porschshop one. I got mine from the OPC because I decided to do it last Friday and ordering from them meant I could pick it up on the Saturday morning.

MdR · Post by **MdR** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:16 pm

hot66 wrote:so you didn't use the 'bent' feeler gauge then ?

Nope, I chickened out & decided on the 'correct' tool

hot66 wrote:Is the Porsche one the same as the 'Pelican' one?

Dunno, it hasn't arrived yet nor do I have a Pelican one to compare it with

sladey · Post by **sladey** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:45 pm

Incidentally I'm doing them all again this week-end - they are still too loud and I think I left too big a gap in my interpretation of 'mild resistance'

From reading posts on pelican it can take a few goes before you get used to it

sladey · Post by **sladey** » Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:56 pm

Re-did them again this week-end - it seemed to go a bit better this time (not had chance to give it a proper drive since but seemed OK on the limit drive I went on)

A few other pointers:-
Please note that if you are of a male persuasion then you may find it hard to read the following instructions without giggling at the combinations of words like 'feeler', 'wiggle', 'screw', 'mild resistance', and 'push down on it'. I recommend you have a little giggle, a titter even, before you start, in order to get it out of the way. This should make your subsequent reading of the article run a little more smoothly.

1. I bought a cranked ring spanner set - using this to tighten the nut around the adjusting screw was way better than 'normal' open-ended spanners, and it managed to fit on every one
2. When down the exhaust valves you've got room to get a screwdriver in there for the adjustment but on the intake valves it's a bit restricted. I used the screwdriver bit from a power screwdriver (you know the thing you put in your drill that is magentic and you can put different screw bits into). I found using that on it's own was fine - you never need to exert any screwing force. Then once the adjustment was made, as I tightened the nut I could still see the flats on the screwdriver bit and make sure the screw wasn't turning as well
3. For the adjustment itself:-
a) Firstly I backed off the locking nut, and loosened the screw
b) Wiggle the rocker and pull it up - making the gap you are going to measure as big as possible
c) I put the feeler guage in and gently wiggled it.
d) Whilst wiggling it I tightened the screw under it stopped me wiggling the feeler gauge. I then backed off a bit - about one sixteenth of a turn - that gave me the 'mild resistance' required.
e) When turning the screw try NOT to push down on it (like you would normally when screwing a screw in) - doing this will make them seem tighter than they are - if at all possible try and just turn the screw with NO downward pressure.
f) With the screw in the right position I then tightened up the locking nut by hand - I was able to get this firm enough with my fingers so it wouldn't move then I reached for the ring spanner
4. I've heard a recommendation that whilst you are tightening the locking nut leave the feeler guage in so you know it hasn't closed it off.
5. I bought a torque wrench that went down to 6lb ft. I was amazed at how little pressure it was to torque the head covers back down.

I'm not trying to become professor tappet or anything, and I'm still very new to it myself, it's just that if I have to do the job again I'll remember all these things - If I'd known them before I started it would have been easier.

Prattie · Post by **Prattie** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:54 pm

Have you thought of an item called a Click-Adjust.

Its available fropm a firm called Frosts. (same company mentioned re Por cleaning products.)

Click adjust is an item which has a screwdriver center with a socket tool on its outside. Say a half inch acceptor. It then has a handle which opperates on the basis of one click equalling one thou.

You place the unit with the correct socket over the screwdriver part, and having closed the tappet right down, locate the whole unit onto the tappet retainer nut. Unturn the screw listening for a click. 4 clicks = 4thou. Once done use the lever attached to the socket and the screwdriver part to hold the tappet screw still, tighten the tappet nut.

All sounds complex but you honestly dont even have to look just use your ears.

I'll try and post a picture if poss. (cost approx £21) .

Saves a lot of knuckle skin.

Steve

Northy · Post by **Northy** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:57 pm

Sounds good;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK7_tih9sUU

Steve, have you used one on a 911 - do they work ok? Is there enough clearance past the h/exchangers?

Prattie · Post by **Prattie** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:42 pm

I have used one before and they work well makes it easier to do.

However I have not tried it on a porsche engine with exchangers in place. Sorry.

Steve

DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Tappet Adjustment tips

Tappet Adjustment tips

Tappets

Click Adjust