Cleaning & protecting oil tank

[bjmullan]

I have removed my oil tank because I need to replace a broken bracket. I don't believe I have any holes although it is a few years since there has been any oil in it. So my question is what is the best way of cleaning and protecting it from rust/leaks in the future?

[bjmullan]

No one got any advice?

[johnM]

Hi Brendan

If the tank is corrosion free on the inside you can clean the outside and paint and maybe cover in wax oil. If the tank has corrosion on the inside I would buy a new tank.

Not too sure about E coating, I would want to understand how the product stands up to hot oil. Remember the oil in the tank goes straight to the oil pump and into the engine un filtered, so anything that falls off inside the tank will make its way through the engine.

Kind Regards

[Gary71]

As John said. If my engine ever gets rebuilt it will be connected to a new tank. No way I'd risk that investment despite the cost of a new tank.

[KS]

Mine was sonically cleaned and treated by Canford Classics. Seems like sonic cleaning is the only way to go as it removes everything (well, everything that's not meant to be there). Quite a few places offer the service – check on line.

[hot66]

check wether the internal copper coating is flaking off anywhere ....i'm not sure if anyone has found a method of restoring the tanks properly yet so new is the answer ( assuming you can source the correct tank)

[haasad]

I agree with Keith sonic, is best, Mine was then welded up ( pinholes) , re cleaned and e coated . I then encapsulated it in epoxy resin with a filler media.

[super9064]

The tanks originally were first plated in copper then painted black. If you wanted to restore it as new have it ultrasonically cleaned, pressure tested, and re-plated. Any chrome plater can do this since the first step in chrome plating is first copper plate the part. If you don't want to go through all that trouble. Chemical strip off the remaining paint, wire brush off the rust scale, treat with rust converter then paint with a rust encapsulator, such as POR. When you reinstall the tank you may want to place a piece of rubber between the tank and the body of the car, to prevent it from rubbing. There is a raised ring of metal that makes body contact, and it is always the first part to rust.

[bjmullan]

Thanks for all the advice. I believed that the tank was sound and it certainly wasn't leaking before the engine was removed so that first thing I did was give it a very good clean using elbow grease and Gunk.

Before:



After:



[url=https://flic.kr/p/n2AMQj]

[bjmullan]

I then got a second opinion from Mike Bainsbridge and decided that I would paint it using POR15. So I purchased the degreaser, surface prep and also the POR15 and the tank is looking great. I removed all of the lose rust but didn't want to sand away the whole tank so wasn't brothered about the surface finish.

[DarthMJH]

Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know if the oil tank protective gauze is available separately?

[graemesse]

the reaction to the POR15 look horendous. I would re think if it was mine

[safe]

That tank is probably junk.

With that amount of rust on the outside the inside is probably full of rust. Surprisingly they often rust more from the inside than the outside.
Do NOT try to use any coatings on the inside.

If you cleaned it inside with petrol or something give it a few whacks with a mallet/hammer on the edge (where it's strong) and listen for dislodged rust when you shake it...

[bjmullan]

There has been no reaction to the POR15, the picture just shows of the rough surface on the tank. I didn't remove all the rust just ensure that lose items were removed. The inside of the tank is also very clean and I have already given it several wacks on the edge without hearing any lose bits inside the tank.

[Bruce M]

Remember to top coat por15 after it has cured.