DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Now received the MSD ignition box and coil. Not fitted it yet, but has given me something else to check: they recommend 8.5mm helically wound H.T. leads. These are required for 'high powered' ignition systems to reduce/elliminate the potential for electromagnetic interference causing ghost signals t...

Just to let you know, I ordered a MSD 6A ignition setup today, should be with me tomorrow (Tues). Hopefully will be able to fit by end of week, and give an update. By the way, I'm sure your rolling road guy will have some sort of ignition analyser, and should be able to get a 'scope picture of the c...

Ian, my car is doing just the same, runs more or less O.K. upto 3200 revs, but won't go beyond, tonight blipped it in workshop, sure enough it will go further without load. The interesting thing is that mine is an E engine running on Zeniths. I have pretty much ruled out fuel (known carbs, tested fu...

Thanks chaps! Just a quick update: in view of the fact that any replacement for the C.D. unit is likely to be a) Hard to find, and b) Less than cheap, I thought I had better carry on with my investigations. Hooked king lead upto a champion plug with 1/4 inch gap (good power test for ignition): Bang!...

Has anyone had a C.D. Unit fail, if so, do they tend simply to completely die, or do they break down bit by bit? I'm getting a heavy missfire that starts around 2700 rpm, and won't allow the engine to pass 3200 rpm :( . I'm pretty sure that fuel system is now ruled out (Carbs, muck, fuel flow etc et...

Right, sorted. :oops: Speaking to a ex-mechanic and race engine builder, who suggested the same faults could be due to wear in the distributer - particularly the advance/retard parts (affecting idle speed etc) Upon checking, the adance/retard was indeed a bit tardy, and now the engine has run for a ...

Thanks, Robster, good thought, I initially set the carbs on the factory setup of 2 1/2 turns, and went out from there. I did not get the impression of it running rich (exhaust very clean etc) but well worth trying. The current situation is that I removed my carbs, plus the maifolds. De-studded the m...

Thanks Tim /Domo. The carbs are currently back off. I did clean then through with carb cleaner initially, and I have to admit that if the cleaner came through, I assumed that the passage must be clear - had I known how it would run I would of been more thorough! Someone has now generously lent me so...

Picture this: freshly built engine (2.4E) running on 40 Tins - a combination I have seen running on other cars with the Tins on 'T' type jets. Pulls fine, plenty of power for a new engine BUT it has a very unreliable idle. you set carbs as per Zentith / Porsche manual (thanks Phil), but after drivin...

Yep, good point, I was indeed talking about the outside of the seal (grease/silicon), but did in fact lube the inner (oil I think): I'll grease it in the future . No oil leaks yet though .

Just done this, which is embarrasing as the engine has run for about 30 mins since a rebuild. Turns out that I had managed to get the seal slightly cocked when clamping up the crankcase :oops: Anyway, as Kurt says watch those 12 spliners, also if the 6mm Allen head bolts that hold the clutch strip, ...

Cheers, Gary, I have received the order confirmation - subject to the transfer, hopefully sort that out later this week!

Thanks for the tip on the liners, Gary: I've just ordered a set for my 'T' (I think - I selected payment on delivery and it seemed to go through ). How long do they take, if its not too long I'll delay trying the car and keep those arches sparkly.

Call me an animal, but I've always found that the best approach with top mount nuts involves impact: either air/battery impact guns, or wacking a spanner with a copper/hide hammer. The small hex/flats never seem to allow nearly enough leverage for freeing elderly threads, and you only seem to muller...