DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Yes, just tear it apart, every bit of the engine, then check things out as you will have to anyway.

I can't think of a reason why you cannot split the cases and free the crank as long as you have no cam chains fitted to the cams.

The tight crank could be a number of things from a seized oil pump to the main bearings.
You need to have that stud/corner welded anyway, so simply tear it all apart.

Lovely!
Nice to see one in action and leaning on it good and hard Rob.
A sunny Curb, nice surprise.

I think the root problem is compression both primary (crank case) and cylinder. The piston should be all but an interference fit at the TDC position. I also need to check the piston top to the exhaust ports and the transfer port, but not feeling the LUV yet to strip it down and check. More homework ...

I think I meant Never Again will I do a modiofied 911 engine, but a stock rebuild will be easy by comparison. A nice reliable Clewett system would be good over the 1986 Bosche DME? Don't think that will happen again in my garage! You will need a lot of paraffin to rough wash those parts, the longer ...

Talk to REAP in the UK?

That is correct Gary, also using auto box trans fluid, all good at seeping into closed gaps. Bit of hot air gun always helps... Rob, this afternoon roughly costed up the parts to rebuild my elderly 3.2 in my 73T. About £2000 should cover it. All costs from Design911 but there is a good discounts ava...

Indeed.
To my view is all the engine mount/silencer a bit low in the shell? That is too close to the road?

You are right! A good external clean would have helped, but now you are here, just tear the lot apart down to the crank. You need to check a lot more yet Rob, the intermediate shaft clearance and float and other things. The pistons will clean well, i think that bore will hone, but you need an engine...

Posted just now I smell of ether... I smell of blood sweat and tears... This engine (if I dare call it that) will not start. both wrists hurt from trying and the wood prop looks like firewood. I have decided to leave it for a while or for ever (preferably) and let it sit on the shelf and remind me t...

This has blossomed to a great sounding event for DDK.
I will be racing the Lola at Shelsley Walsh with at least 2 other DDK players, but I do wish it well.

Hope this will become and Annual Bash and can make it next year.

Good going Rob. The 3.2 engine design is far far better in these areas, but the older engines are now getting on and you will finds these things more and more. The engine will only get noticably lighter when the heads are off and the engine on the stand feels almost 'stable' You can rebuild it prope...

Yes, the ecote applied at the factory and in key places the stone chip thereafter. I have had deep surface rust on both sill leading faces (wheel grit thrown up) and have repaired this and stuck some ABS guards on each side, fix that issue. Rust also on the small flaring mouldings at the end of the ...

To get the right compression on these designs needs a near interference fit right close to TDC. This means a clearance of about 1 or less thou, and this can be achieved only by honing or lapping the piston to size or the bore to the piston. First you need a very 'dead-on' clearance and this is hard ...

This will make a nice paperweight! It will NOT start no matter what I do or try. Do not feel inclined to keep on trying as I feel there simply is not enough compression to get to the ideal mixture. In the meantime I've bought another design to make on the Drummond. It is a 1933 design spark ignition...